Argentine Boa, Boa constrictor occidentalis

Enclosures for boas must be long enough for the boa to stretch out fully and exercise. Upgrade your boa’s enclosure any time they are no longer able to stretch out. Avoid glass aquariums with screen lids as they do not hold sufficient humidity. Unlike the common boa, Argentine boas are active climbers as juveniles, so provide sturdy branches and shelves and give them real height to use. Provide a hide at both hot and cool ends.

Coco chip and cypress both make excellent and great looking substrates for most boa enclosures. Aspen will work if the humidity is too high, but it must not be misted as it will mold quickly. Remove any wet or mildewed aspen any time you notice it.

Provide a basking spot at one end regulated to no more than 88 degrees, with a cool end of 80-82. We prefer heat panels as a heat source for plastic and PVC enclosures. A dome light with a ceramic heat emitter is preferable for front opening glass enclosures. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Night drops in temperature are not recommended. Argentine boas do not generally require a UV light, but may benefit from one.

Humidity should be maintained at 60-80%. Place a good quality hygrostat in your boas enclosure to monitor humidity. Using the correct substrate and misting occasionally is usually sufficient to maintain appropriate levels. Do not mist aspen.

Provide your boa with a non-porous water bowl and change it frequently. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.

Boas are generally docile snakes, but they typically have strong feeding responses. You should study and practice tap training with your boa. There are numerous resources available online to show you how to do this, and you should be consistent in practice. Support your boa’s body when handling. Do not let them dangle loosely. Boas use their tails to support themselves, so expect that they will grab ahold of your hand, arm, or clothing when being handled. Boas should not be allowed to wrap around a handler’s neck as they can restrict airways in the process of supporting themselves. Instead, support larger animals over one shoulder and under the other arm. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.

Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Do not feed your snake from your fingers. Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding. Young boas do best on mice, but should be transitioned to rats by the time they are big enough to eat large mice.

Hatchlings to 1 year: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value. Baby quail may be used to add diversity to their diet.

1-2 years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once every 2 weeks. Poultry may be used to add diversity to their diet.

2 years and up: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once every 3-4 weeks. Poultry may be used to add diversity to their diet. Boas are especially fond of guinea pigs, but a diet of strictly guinea pigs should be avoided as they are too fatty.

The correct body shape for a boa is that of a bread loaf: square on the sides and round on top. A round boa is obese.

Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.

Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.