Winston-Salem, NC. No public retail location. Every live animal requires vetting before purchase.
← All Care Guides

Boas & Pythons

Burmese Python, Python bivittatus

Intermediate

Burmese pythons are very large, heavy-bodied, terrestrial pythons ranging from Myanmar east through southern China and Indonesia. They are docile for their size, they are hardy, and they are not difficult to handle. That combination is what makes them dangerous, because it leads keepers to underestimate an animal that reaches ten to sixteen feet. A large Burmese python is strong enough to seriously injure or kill an adult whether or not it intends to, and the snake that was easy to keep at four feet becomes a two person job and a piece of built furniture. Buy one only if you have already built the adult enclosure. We do not consider these to be appropriate for beginning keepers due to their potential size, the space and cost of keeping an adult, and the legal requirements that apply to them in many states.

At a glance

Origin
Myanmar east through southern China and Indonesia
Size
Commonly 10-16 feet
Lifespan
15-25 years
Basking Temperature
86 degrees maximum
Cool End Temperature
78-80 degrees
Humidity
60-80%
Substrate
Cypress for juveniles. Paper is acceptable for adults.
Baby enclosure size
20” x 10” x 12” – 30″ x 12″ x 12″
Adult enclosure size
10’ x 4’ x 3’ or larger, custom built.

This guide is a brief overview of basic care and minimum husbandry requirements and is not intended as a comprehensive guide to care. Our best advice:

Read, read, read! Studying about your new pet is the key to a long and happy life for them, and years of enjoyment for you.

01

Housing

Enclosures must be long enough for the snake to stretch out fully and exercise. Burmese pythons are terrestrial, so floor space matters far more than height, and an adult needs 10 feet by 4 feet by 3 feet or larger. At that size the enclosure will have to be built rather than bought. Provide a hide large enough for the snake to feel covered in and a water bowl it can drink from. Burmese pythons should always be kept in a sturdy, escape-proof enclosure with an operable lock. Their enclosure as well as any container they are transported in should be labelled with species, common name, owner, and contact information. A written safety protocol and escape recovery plan should be kept within sight of the enclosure and accompany the animal when being transported. NC residents should refer to NC General Statutes, Chapter 14, Article 55.

02

Substrate

We recommend cypress for juveniles. Paper works well for a large adult and is far easier to service at that size. A tightly built enclosure with minimal venting is what actually holds humidity on an animal this large.

03

Heating and Lighting

Provide a basking spot at one end regulated to no more than 86 degrees, with a cool end of 78-80. There is no reason to run a Burmese python hotter than this. We prefer radiant heat panels at this size. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Burmese pythons do not generally require a UV light, but may benefit from one.

04

Humidity

Humidity should be maintained at 60-80%. Place a good quality hygrostat in your python’s enclosure to monitor humidity. Hatchlings want it higher, at 65-75%, which is the reverse of what most people assume.

05

Water

Provide your python with a non-porous, tip-resistant water bowl and change it frequently. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.

06

Handling

Burmese pythons typically tame well and are docile for their size, but they have strong feeding responses. You should study and practice tap training with your python. There are numerous resources available online to show you how to do this, and you should be consistent in practice. Never handle a Burmese python over about eight feet alone. Two adults are the minimum, and three once the animal passes twelve feet. Pythons should not be allowed to wrap around a handler’s neck as they can restrict airways in the process of supporting themselves. Please study safe handling practices for these animals. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.

07

Feeding

Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail if possible, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding. Burmese pythons enjoy poultry in addition to rodents. Larger adults will eat rabbits, small pigs, and whole chickens (feet and beak removed). Feed appropriately sized prey at appropriate intervals, but never deprive them of food. Obesity is common in Burmese pythons, and leads to serious health concerns which may drastically shorten the life expectancy of the animal.

Hatchlings to 1 year: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value.

1-2 years: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once every 2 weeks.

2 years and up: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once every 3-4 weeks.

The correct body shape for a Burmese python is essentially round, but muscle definition should be slightly visible.

08

Common Issues

Scale rot

The first sign of scale rot is white areas where the scales seem to be receding. Scale rot is commonly caused by the enclosure being too wet. It is also frequently caused by stress as a result of improper sanitation, improper enclosure size, lack of hiding area for security, or heat being too high or low. You should confirm that all aspects of your enclosure are optimal first and foremost if you notice the beginning of scale rot, and consult your veterinarian for treatment. We also recommend that you change any snake experiencing scale rot to unprinted newsprint or paper towels. Sterilize their environment thoroughly. Clean affected area on snake with 2% chlorhexidine. If an open wound is observed, consult your veterinarian immediately.

Feeding Response

These snakes have a powerful feeding response, and most bites from a well socialized animal are feeding accidents rather than defensive strikes. You should study and practice tap training, and there are numerous resources available online to show you how to do this. Never open the enclosure with the smell of prey on your hands, and wash them thoroughly after handling frozen thawed food.

Obesity

Obesity is common in captive pythons and it is caused by overfeeding. It leads to fatty liver disease and other serious health concerns, and it will considerably shorten the life of your snake. Feed appropriately sized prey at appropriate intervals, and do not use food as a solution to a behavioral problem.

09

Quarantine

Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.

Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.