Asian Rat Snakes
Chinese Beauty Snake, Orthriophis taeniurus taeniurus
IntermediateChinese beauties are medium-sized, slender, active colubrids. They have impressive coloration and patterns and uniquely amongst beauty snakes, captively bred morphs are known. They are much more docile than some other beauty snakes, and socialize relatively easily. While their husbandry requirements are not difficult to achieve and they are relatively hardy, scarcity of information on their care and keeping makes them arguably an intermediate species.
At a glance
- Origin
- China
- Size
- 4-6 feet
- Lifespan
- 15-25 years
- Basking Temperature
- 82 degrees
- Cool End Temperature
- 76-79 degrees
- Humidity
- 50-70%
- Substrate
- Cypress, coco chip, coco husk
- Baby enclosure size
- 20″ x 10″ x 10″
- Adult enclosure size
- 3’ x 2’ x 2’
This guide is a brief overview of basic care and minimum husbandry requirements and is not intended as a comprehensive guide to care. Our best advice:
Read, read, read! Studying about your new pet is the key to a long and happy life for them, and years of enjoyment for you.
Housing
Enclosures must be long enough for the snake to stretch out fully and exercise. Chinese beauties should be given vines and foliage to climb. Upgrade your snake’s enclosure any time they are no longer able to stretch out. Avoid glass aquariums with screen lids as they do not hold sufficient humidity. Provide multiple hiding places. Chinese beauties can be kept in bioactive enclosures.
Substrate
Coco chip, coco husk, and cypress make excellent and great looking substrates for Chinese beauties’ enclosures and help retain humidity.
Heating and Lighting
A basking spot can be provided at one end of the enclosure regulated to 82 degrees. Ceramic heat emitters or panels are preferable. When using heat emitters, a guard must be present and secure to avoid burns. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Basking spot may be cycled for day-night, with a constant ambient temp of 76-79 degree recommended. Unlike cave racers, Chinese beauties are not shade dwellers, and they will bask when given the opportunity.
Humidity
Humidity should be maintained at 50-70%. Place a good quality hygrostat in your snake’s enclosure to monitor humidity. Using the correct substrate and misting occasionally is usually sufficient to maintain appropriate levels, but a fogger may be used if you wish.
Water
Provide your snake with a non-porous water bowl and change it frequently. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.
Handling
Chinese beauties require regular handling from the time they are young to develop into docile, well-socialized adults. Keep two hands on the snake at all times as they are extremely agile and can get away quickly. Use a firm but comfortable grip. Young snakes that are being socialized may bite, but this is uncommon. The best reaction is no reaction. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.
Feeding
Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Do not feed your snake from your fingers. Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding. Chinese beauty snakes will not typically eat when in shed.
Hatchlings to 2 years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value.
2+ years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once every 1-2 weeks. If the snake is refusing meals ~50% of the time, adjust the feeding schedule accordingly.
The correct body shape for a Chinese beauty is a little taller than wide.
Common Issues
Scale rot
The first sign of scale rot is white areas where the scales seem to be receding. Scale rot is commonly caused by the enclosure being too wet. It is also frequently caused by stress as a result of improper sanitation, improper enclosure size, lack of hiding area for security, or heat being too high or low. You should confirm that all aspects of your enclosure are optimal first and foremost if you notice the beginning of scale rot, and consult your veterinarian for treatment. We also recommend that you change any snake experiencing scale rot to unprinted newsprint or paper towels. Sterilize their environment thoroughly. Clean affected area on snake with 2% chlorhexidine. If an open wound is observed, consult your veterinarian immediately.
Stomatitis (Mouth Rot)
This is usually caused by bedding or other debris lodged in the corners of the snake’s mouth, and it is far more likely in an enclosure that is kept too wet. Foreign objects should be removed with tweezers, with the help of an assistant (or two) to hold the snake safely and securely. Consult your veterinarian for treatment.
Overheating
Overheating is one of the most common ways these snakes are lost, and it can happen quickly. A snake that is out in the open, restless, gaping, or pressed against the coolest surface it can find is telling you that its enclosure is too warm. These are shade dwellers and they do not want the high heat their range suggests, so treat 82 degrees as a ceiling rather than a target. Correct the temperature of the room rather than simply moving the snake, and confirm your readings with a thermostat rather than relying on a thermometer alone.
Impaction
A hard feeding strike takes a mouthful of bedding with it, and coarse substrate swallowed alongside a meal can pack the gut. Feeding on a tile or in a separate container prevents the problem entirely. A snake that has gone off food, stopped passing stool, and turned lethargic needs frequent lukewarm soaks and a veterinarian.
Quarantine
Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.
Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.