Kingsnakes & Milk Snakes
Nuevo Leon/Variable Kingsnake, Lampropeltis leonis
BeginnerNuevo Leon (or Variable) kingsnakes are a desert dwelling kingsnake endemic to Mexico. They are fascinating in their high degree of variation, from milk snake-like, to buckskin, gray, orange, and melanistic. Even two similar adults can produce litters with widely varied offspring. They are a small snake, typically 2 to 3 feet. They are elusive by nature but tame readily with minimal handling, although hatchlings can be quite skittish. While easy enough for novice keepers, their small size especially as hatchlings requires delicate handling that may be difficult for children.
At a glance
- Origin
- Nuevo Leon, Tamaulipas and adjacent Mexico
- Size
- Around 3 feet, rarely 3.5
- Lifespan
- 15-20 years
- Basking Temperature
- 85 degrees. Never above 90.
- Cool End Temperature
- 75-80 degrees
- Humidity
- 40-60%
- Substrate
- Aspen
- Baby enclosure size
- 20″ x 10″ x 10″ (15qt – 10 gallon or equivalent)
- Adult enclosure size
- 36” x 18” x 18” (or equivalent)
This guide is a brief overview of basic care and minimum husbandry requirements and is not intended as a comprehensive guide to care. Our best advice:
Read, read, read! Studying about your new pet is the key to a long and happy life for them, and years of enjoyment for you.
Housing
Enclosures must be long enough for the snake to stretch out fully and exercise. These kingsnakes prefer to burrow rather than climb. Provide multiple hiding places. Upgrade your snake’s enclosure any time they are no longer able to stretch out. As humidity is not a substantial requirement for these animals, glass aquariums with screen tops are acceptable, though they are not our recommendation, as these snakes are excellent escape artists.
Substrate
Aspen is ideal for these kingsnakes, and should be provided thick enough to allow burrowing. Remove any wet or mildewed substrate regularly.
Heating and Lighting
A basking spot can be provided at one end of the enclosure regulated to 85 degrees, and never above 90. Kingsnakes stop using a hot spot around 90 degrees and cannot get themselves out of trouble past it. Ceramic heat emitters may be used with a guard to avoid burns (a screen lid is in effect a guard, but make sure the emitter is not touching the screen directly). An undertank heater will also work well. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Basking spot may be cycled for day-night, with a constant ambient temp in the mid-70’s. These kingsnakes do not require UV lights.
Humidity
These kingsnakes do well at 40-60% humidity, which ordinary room conditions usually provide without supplementing. A humid hide with damp sphagnum moss may be provided to assist with shedding, but this is not typically needed.
Water
Provide your snake with a non-porous water bowl and change it frequently. We find that because they move their bedding around frequently, a bowl with higher sides is preferable. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.
Handling
These kingsnakes should be handled regularly from the time they are young to develop into docile, well-socialized adults. Because they have few natural defenses, they frequently thrash and musk when picked up. When handling hatchling kingsnakes, we find it best to gently scoop them up with two hands, keeping them in the enclosure rather than removing them. This helps avoid falls, which can injure a young kingsnake. With regular handling, your young kingsnake will become more comfortable with being picked up. Young snakes that are being socialized may bite, but this is uncommon. The best reaction is no reaction. If children are handling hatchling snakes, adult supervision should always be provided.
Feeding
Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Do not feed your snake from your fingers. Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding. These kingsnakes will not typically eat when in shed.
Hatchlings to 2 years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value.
2+ years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once every 1-2 weeks. If the snake is refusing meals ~50% of the time, adjust the feeding schedule accordingly.
The correct body shape for a Nuevo Leon/Variable kingsnake is essentially round, but not so thick as to make the tail overly distinguishable from the body.
Common Issues
Escape
Snakes are considerably stronger and more persistent than most new keepers expect, and an escaped snake is frequently a dead snake. Your enclosure must latch securely, and any screen top must be clipped down on all sides. Check that the enclosure is properly closed every time you finish working in it. If your snake does get out, they are most often found in the same room, in the warmest and darkest place they can reach.
Stuck Shed
A shed that comes off in pieces, or a retained eye cap, generally means that humidity was too low while your snake was in shed, or that your snake is dehydrated. Provide a humid hide with damp sphagnum moss and confirm that the water bowl is full. Never pull a retained eye cap off dry. A piece of retained shed left on the tail tip will constrict and cost your snake the end of its tail.
Cohousing
Kingsnakes and milk snakes eat other snakes, and that includes their own species. Never house two together, at any age, for any length of time. There is no warning display before it happens, and it does not improve with familiarity or with matching them for size.
Hatchling Feeding Refusal
Hatchlings from lines that were not started well can be stubborn feeders. Scenting the pinky with silverside fish works well on this species, and silversides are easier to obtain than the lizards recommended in older sources. Thaw the pinky, rub it with a silverside, and offer it warm. Every baby we sell is established and feeding on frozen thawed pinkies before it goes anywhere.
Quarantine
Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.
Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.