Winston-Salem, NC. No public retail location. Every live animal requires vetting before purchase.

Boas & Pythons

Reticulated Python, Malayopython reticulatus

Advanced

Mortal Coil Serpentry produces dwarf and superdwarf reticulated pythons, and this guide is primarily focused on them. In general, superdwarfs average between 5 and 9 feet depending on locality or locality mix, while dwarfs are generally from 8 to 13 feet. A mainland reticulated python is a much larger animal, with males commonly reaching 12 to 14 feet and females 16 to 18 feet. It is important to note that within reticulated pythons of mixed locality, the single greatest indicator of size is the size of the parent animals. Normal reticulated pythons have a complex geometric pattern that incorporates several colors. A smaller reticulated python is not inherently an easier reticulated python. It is a different reticulated python with a slightly different set of requirements. Superdwarfs in particular are faster, more active, and far more interested in climbing than their mainland counterparts. They are very good at getting out of an enclosure that is not properly secured. What the smaller size does change is the inherent danger. A superdwarf is typically not large enough to seriously injure an adult, while a large dwarf or any mainland animal certainly is. That said, it is important to remember that while all snakes are predators, reticulated pythons are apex predators and regardless of size they must be treated with care, caution, and respect. Due to their intelligence, common health issues, and legal requirements, we do not consider mainland reticulated pythons to be appropriate for beginning keepers.

At a glance

Origin: South and Southeast Asia
Size: Superdwarf 5-9 ft. Dwarf 8-13 ft. Mainland males 12-14 ft, females 16-18 ft.
Lifespan: 20-30 years
Basking Temperature: 88 degrees maximum
Cool End Temperature: 78-80 degrees
Humidity: 65-85%
Substrate: Cypress or coco chip. Paper is acceptable for adults.
Baby enclosure size: 20” x 10” x 12” – 30″ x 12″ x 12″
Adult enclosure size: Superdwarf 6’ x 2’ x 3’. Dwarf 8’ x 3’ x 3’. Mainland 10’ x 4’ x 3’ or larger, custom built.

This guide is a brief overview of basic care and minimum husbandry requirements and is not intended as a comprehensive guide to care. Our best advice:

Read, read, read! Studying about your new pet is the key to a long and happy life for them, and years of enjoyment for you.

Housing

Enclosures for young reticulated pythons do not have to be long enough for the snake to stretch out fully, but additional space is beneficial. Mainland reticulated pythons often become more sedentary as they mature. Dwarf and superdwarf reticulated pythons do not, and they frequently retain the semi-arboreal nature of neonates as adults. Give them height and sturdy branches to climb on, as they will use them. Reticulated pythons should always be kept in a sturdy, escape-proof enclosure with an operable lock. Their enclosure as well as any container they are transported in should be labelled with species, common name, owner, and contact information. A written safety protocol and escape recovery plan should be kept within sight of the reticulated python’s enclosure and accompany the animal when being transported. NC residents should refer to NC General Statutes, Chapter 14, Article 55. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.

Substrate

We recommend cypress or a cypress and coco chip mix for reticulated pythons. Paper can be used for larger animals. Dwarf and superdwarf reticulated pythons hold humidity better on a loose bedding than they do on paper, so we keep them on bedding through adulthood.

Heating and Lighting

Provide a basking spot at one end regulated to no more than 88 degrees. Dwarf and super dwarf varieties seem to prefer a degree or two cooler than mainland pythons, so run them at the lower end of that. We prefer heat panels as a heat source. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Night drops in temperature are not recommended. Reticulated pythons do not generally require a UV light, but may benefit from one.

Humidity

Humidity should be maintained at 65-85%. Place a good quality hygrostat in your python’s enclosure to monitor humidity. Misting once or twice daily is usually necessary to hold these levels. Reticulated pythons should not be kept wet, as they are prone to scale rot.

Water

Provide your python with a non-porous, tip-resistant water bowl and change it frequently. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.

Handling

Reticulated pythons typically tame well, but they have strong feeding responses. You should study and practice tap training with your python. There are numerous resources available online to show you how to do this, and you should be consistent in practice. Support your python’s body when handling. Do not let them dangle loosely, as the animal may constrict to catch itself should it start to fall. Pythons should not be allowed to wrap around a handler’s neck as they can restrict airways in the process of supporting themselves. Instead, support the animal over one shoulder and under the other arm. Never handle larger reticulated pythons alone. Please study safe handling practices for these animals.

Feeding

Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail if possible, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding. Reticulated pythons enjoy poultry in addition to rodents. Larger adults will eat rabbits, small pigs, and whole chickens (feet and beak removed). Strategic feeding on appropriate prey is key to maintaining both health and smaller sizes for dwarf and super dwarf reticulated pythons, but they should never be deprived of food. Obesity is common in reticulated pythons, and leads to serious health concerns which may drastically shorten the life expectancy of the animal.

Hatchlings to 1 year: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value.

1-2 years: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once every 2 weeks.

2 years and up: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once every 3-4 weeks.

The correct body shape for a reticulated python is essentially round, but muscle definition should be slightly visible.

Common Issues

Pushing

Reticulated pythons, particularly dwarf and super dwarf reticulated pythons, are prone to pushing for a multitude of reasons from inappropriate enclosure size (too small or too large), incorrect temperature, hunger, boredom, and breeding drive. Consult additional resources if you observe your python pushing, but removing the snake for exercise and enrichment is often a good temporary solution. Food should not be the primary solution for pushing, as this will lead directly to obesity.

Stomatitis (Mouth Rot)

Frequently a symptom of pushing, this can also be caused by bedding or other debris lodged in the corners of the python’s mouth. Foreign objects should be removed with tweezers, with the help of an assistant (or two) to hold the snake safely and securely. Consult your veterinarian for treatment.

Scale rot

The first sign of scale rot is white areas where the scales seem to be receding. Scale rot is commonly caused by the enclosure being too wet. It is also frequently caused by stress as a result of improper sanitation, improper enclosure size, lack of hiding area for security, or heat being too high or low. You should confirm that all aspects of your enclosure are optimal first and foremost if you notice the beginning of scale rot, and consult your veterinarian for treatment. We also recommend that you change any python experiencing scale rot to unprinted newsprint or paper towels. Sterilize their environment thoroughly. Clean affected area on snake with 2% chlorhexidine. If an open wound is observed, consult your veterinarian immediately.

Respiratory infections

Reticulated pythons are prone to respiratory infections. Unlike with other animals, respiratory infections in snakes are typically a secondary infection, symptomatic of an underlying issue with husbandry or another health concern. Wheezing and mouth breathing are the most common symptoms. Discharge may or may not be present. Respiratory infections require addressing the underlying issue, as well as a course of antibiotics.

Feeding Response

These snakes have a powerful feeding response, and most bites from a well socialized animal are feeding accidents rather than defensive strikes. You should study and practice tap training, and there are numerous resources available online to show you how to do this. Never open the enclosure with the smell of prey on your hands, and wash them thoroughly after handling frozen thawed food.

Male aggression

Unusually onsetting around puberty, male reticulated pythons are prone to mood changes and defensive behavior. Males can also be triggered by the presence of female pythons who are releasing pheromones. You can prevent this behavior to some degree with additional handling from a young age for males.

Obesity

Obesity is abundantly common in reticulated pythons. They are opportunistic feeders and will eat almost every time food is offered, even when they aren’t actually hungry. Some keepers are under the impression that more food will mean a larger snake, and overfeed intentionally in order to achieve giant sizes. While food intake does have a correlation to overall size of the animal, “power feeding” ultimately leads to fatty liver disease, respiratory and cardiovascular distress, weak bone structure due to accelerated growth, and other issues which adversely affect the animal’s quality of life and longevity. It may ultimately lead to less size attainment in the long run, as an animal at optimal health will achieve optimal growth. Feeding retics appropriately sized meals at appropriate intervals is absolutely critical.

Inclusion Body Disease

Inclusion body disease affects both pythons and boas. Pythons develop acute neurological disease that kills within days or weeks of the first sign, while boas frequently carry it without symptoms and can appear healthy for years. Symptoms include tremors, stargazing, disorientation, regurgitation, abnormal sheds, and an inability to strike or constrict. It passes from a female to her offspring, so an animal can be positive without anyone knowing. There is no treatment and no vaccine. This is the strongest argument for quarantining any new snake away from the snakes you already own.

Escape

Reticulated pythons are strong and persistent, and a superdwarf is small enough to fit through a gap you would not expect to matter. Your enclosure must latch securely and lock. Check that it is properly closed every time you finish working in it. If your snake does get out, they are most often found in the same room, in the warmest and darkest place they can reach.

Quarantine

Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.

Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.