Asian Rat Snakes
Rhinoceros Rat Snake, Rhynchophis boulengeri
IntermediateRhinoceros rat snakes are medium-sized, genuinely arboreal colubrids from northern Vietnam and southern China, and they are unmistakable for the soft scaled horn on the end of the snout. Hatchlings are gray brown and turn green as they mature, and the adult green varies from pale to deep depending on the animal. They are mostly nocturnal and generally docile. The floor area they need is modest for their length because this animal lives off the ground, but they require real vertical space and real branches. We consider them an intermediate species due to their arboreal requirements, their day-to-night humidity cycle, and their skill at escaping an enclosure that is not properly secured.
At a glance
- Origin
- Northern Vietnam and southern China
- Size
- 4-5 feet
- Lifespan
- 15-20 years
- Basking Temperature
- 84 degrees maximum
- Cool End Temperature
- 75-79 degrees
- Humidity
- 60-80%, lower by day and higher at night
- Substrate
- Cypress, coco chip, or coco husk.
- Baby enclosure size
- 20″ x 10″ x 10″
- Adult enclosure size
- 4’ x 2’ x 3’
This guide is a brief overview of basic care and minimum husbandry requirements and is not intended as a comprehensive guide to care. Our best advice:
Read, read, read! Studying about your new pet is the key to a long and happy life for them, and years of enjoyment for you.
Housing
Enclosures must be long enough for the snake to stretch out fully and exercise, and tall enough for the snake to climb. Rhinoceros rat snakes are genuinely arboreal and live off the ground, so height matters as much as floor area and an adult needs 4 feet by 2 feet by 3 feet. Give them sturdy branches and foliage to climb. Avoid glass aquariums with screen lids as they do not hold sufficient humidity. Use a tight-fitting, secure lid, as these snakes will escape through small gaps between tubs and racks. House hatchlings individually.
Substrate
Coco chip, coco husk, and cypress make excellent and great looking substrates for rhinoceros rat snakes’ enclosures and help retain humidity.
Heating and Lighting
A basking area can be provided at one end of the enclosure regulated to no more than 84 degrees, with a cool end of 75-79. These snakes do not want it hot. Ceramic heat emitters or panels are preferable. When using heat emitters, a guard must be present and secure to avoid burns. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Rhinoceros rat snakes are nocturnal and do not require UV lighting.
Humidity
Humidity should be maintained at 60-80%, running lower during the day and higher at night. Place a good quality hygrostat in your snake’s enclosure to monitor humidity. Provide a moist hide at all times. Do not overwater the enclosure itself, as a soaked cage will cause scale rot.
Water
Provide your snake with a non-porous water bowl and change it frequently. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.
Handling
Rhinoceros rat snakes require regular handling from the time they are young to develop into docile, well-socialized adults. Keep two hands on the snake at all times as they are extremely agile and can get away quickly. Use a firm but comfortable grip. Young snakes that are being socialized may bite. The best reaction is no reaction. With time and gentle handling, defensive strikes will become less and less frequent. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.
Feeding
Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Do not feed your snake from your fingers. Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding.
Hatchlings should not be fed until the yolk is absorbed, which takes one to two weeks after hatching.
Hatchlings to 2 years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value.
2+ years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once every 1-2 weeks. If the snake is refusing meals ~50% of the time, adjust the feeding schedule accordingly.
The correct body shape for a rhinoceros rat snake is tall and slender.
Common Issues
Scale rot
The first sign of scale rot is white areas where the scales seem to be receding. Scale rot is commonly caused by the enclosure being too wet. It is also frequently caused by stress as a result of improper sanitation, improper enclosure size, lack of hiding area for security, or heat being too high or low. You should confirm that all aspects of your enclosure are optimal first and foremost if you notice the beginning of scale rot, and consult your veterinarian for treatment. We also recommend that you change any snake experiencing scale rot to unprinted newsprint or paper towels. Sterilize their environment thoroughly. Clean affected area on snake with 2% chlorhexidine. If an open wound is observed, consult your veterinarian immediately.
Stomatitis (Mouth Rot)
This is usually caused by bedding or other debris lodged in the corners of the snake’s mouth, and it is far more likely in an enclosure that is kept too wet. Foreign objects should be removed with tweezers, with the help of an assistant (or two) to hold the snake safely and securely. Consult your veterinarian for treatment.
Escape
Snakes are considerably stronger and more persistent than most new keepers expect, and an escaped snake is frequently a dead snake. Your enclosure must latch securely, and any screen top must be clipped down on all sides. Check that the enclosure is properly closed every time you finish working in it. If your snake does get out, they are most often found in the same room, in the warmest and darkest place they can reach.
Quarantine
Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.
Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.