Boas & Pythons
Southern White-lipped Python, Leiopython fredparkeri
IntermediateSouthern white-lipped pythons are large, semi-arboreal pythons from southern New Guinea, and they are heavily iridescent over a dark ground color. They are the closest living relative of the Bismarck ringed python, and some taxonomists place both in the same genus. Their care and keeping is effectively the same, scaled for size. Much of what is available in the trade is still field collected rather than captive bred, and a captive bred animal is worth seeking out. Their bite, while non-venomous, is significant due to their size and powerful striking force. We consider them an intermediate species due to their adult size, their defensive temperament, and their strong feeding response.
At a glance
- Origin
- Southern New Guinea
- Size
- Up to 8 feet
- Lifespan
- 15-20+ years
- Basking Temperature
- 84-86 degrees
- Cool End Temperature
- 78-80 degrees
- Humidity
- 60-80%
- Substrate
- A mix of coco chip, coco coir, cypress, and sphagnum. Paper is acceptable for adults when supplemented with a humid hide.
- Habit
- Semi-arboreal. Uses sturdy wide branches and shelves, and needs real height as well as floor space.
- Water
- A non-porous, tip-resistant bowl large enough to drink from and soak in, kept clean.
- Baby enclosure size
- 10 gallon to start, with a branch
- Adult enclosure size
- 7’ x 3’ x 4’ minimum
This guide is a brief overview of basic care and minimum husbandry requirements and is not intended as a comprehensive guide to care. Our best advice:
Read, read, read! Studying about your new pet is the key to a long and happy life for them, and years of enjoyment for you.
Housing
Enclosures must be long enough for the snake to stretch out fully and exercise, and tall enough for it to climb. Southern white-lipped pythons are semi-arboreal and they use height genuinely, so provide sturdy wide branches and shelves they can lie along rather than decorative twigs. A minimum of 7 feet by 3 feet by 4 feet is appropriate for an adult. Provide a hide at both ends and a moist hide as standard. Southern white-lipped pythons should always be kept in a sturdy, escape-proof enclosure with an operable lock.
Substrate
We recommend a mix of coco chip, coco coir, cypress, and sphagnum for southern white-lipped pythons. Paper can be used for larger animals, but should be accompanied by a large hidebox with cypress and sphagnum for humidity. Whatever substrate you use, check the corners of your snake's mouth when you handle them, as any coarse bedding can become lodged there and cause stomatitis (mouth rot) if it is not removed.
Heating and Lighting
Provide a basking spot at one end regulated to 84-86 degrees, with a cool end of 78-80. Never let the cool end fall below the high 70s. We prefer heat tape mounted for belly heat as a heat source, and we strongly recommend using a PVC enclosure when using this heat method. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Southern white-lipped pythons do not generally require a UV light, but may benefit from one.
Humidity
Humidity should be maintained at 60-80% and held steady. This is a wet forest animal. Place a good quality hygrostat in your python’s enclosure to monitor humidity. Using the correct substrate and misting is usually sufficient to maintain appropriate levels. Despite the humidity they need, their substrate should not be kept wet, as this may lead to scale rot.
Water
Provide your python with a non-porous, tip-resistant water bowl large enough to drink from and soak in, and change it frequently. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.
Handling
Southern white-lipped pythons are defensive by default, and the only route to a tractable adult is consistent handling from the time they are young. They also have explosive feeding responses. You should study and practice tap training with your python. There are numerous resources available online to show you how to do this, and you should be consistent in practice. Support your python’s body as completely as possible when handling, and expect them to reach for anything they can grip, as they will use height when it is offered. Pythons should not be allowed to wrap around a handler’s neck as they can restrict airways in the process of supporting themselves. Never handle a large one alone. Please study safe handling practices for these animals. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.
Feeding
Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail if possible, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding. Southern white-lipped pythons do well on rodents and enjoy poultry as a treat.
Hatchlings emerge at 12-15 inches and grow quickly.
Hatchlings to 2 years: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value.
2 years and up: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once every 2-3 weeks.
The correct body shape for a southern white-lipped python is round with visible muscle tone. They are not a heavy-bodied python and should not be kept like one.
Common Issues
Scale rot
The first sign of scale rot is white areas where the scales seem to be receding. Scale rot is commonly caused by the enclosure being too wet. It is also frequently caused by stress as a result of improper sanitation, improper enclosure size, lack of hiding area for security, or heat being too high or low. You should confirm that all aspects of your enclosure are optimal first and foremost if you notice the beginning of scale rot, and consult your veterinarian for treatment. We also recommend that you change any python experiencing scale rot to unprinted newsprint or paper towels. Sterilize their environment thoroughly. Clean affected area on snake with 2% chlorhexidine. If an open wound is observed, consult your veterinarian immediately.
Defensiveness
A snake that is not handled regularly is likely to become defensive and to stay that way, and the only reliable remedy is consistent handling from the time they are young. Some individuals will remain defensive no matter how much work you put into them. Young snakes that are being socialized may bite, and the best reaction is no reaction. With time and gentle handling, defensive strikes will become less and less frequent.
Feeding Response
These snakes have a powerful feeding response, and most bites from a well socialized animal are feeding accidents rather than defensive strikes. You should study and practice tap training, and there are numerous resources available online to show you how to do this. Never open the enclosure with the smell of prey on your hands, and wash them thoroughly after handling frozen thawed food.
Quarantine
Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.
Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.