Timor Python, Malayopython timoriensis

Enclosures must be long enough for the snake to stretch out fully and exercise. A Timor python averages around 8 feet, so plan on 8 feet by 3 feet by 2 feet for an adult. They are semi-arboreal and will use height and sturdy branches, and neonates are semi-arboreal from the day they hatch. Start hatchlings in small opaque tubs, as a nervous animal does not settle in a large open enclosure. Provide multiple hiding places. Timor pythons should always be kept in a sturdy, escape-proof enclosure with an operable lock.

We recommend cypress or coco chip for Timor pythons. Both hold humidity well and both allow the snake to burrow if it chooses to.

Provide a basking spot at one end regulated to no more than 86 degrees, with a cool end of 78-80. We prefer heat panels as a heat source. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Timor pythons come from a seasonal island climate and experience a real winter cooling period in the wild. Do not attempt a cooling cycle until you have kept the species through a full year. Timor pythons do not generally require a UV light, but may benefit from one.

Humidity should be maintained at 50-70%. Place a good quality hygrostat in your python’s enclosure to monitor humidity. Many keepers run these at around 60% and never mist directly. Using the correct substrate is usually sufficient to maintain appropriate levels.

Provide your python with a non-porous, tip-resistant water bowl and change it frequently. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.

Timor pythons are fast, nervous, and high-strung, and they will hiss and posture readily when startled. Keep early handling to a minimum, as an over-handled nervous hatchling generally stays nervous. Build up gradually and be consistent about it, and most of them settle into genuinely tractable adults. You should study and practice tap training with your python. Support your python’s body when handling. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.

Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail if possible, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding. Timor pythons do well on rodents and will take poultry as a treat. They are a slender, active python rather than a heavy-bodied one, and their metabolism runs faster than their length suggests, so they are fed more often than a python of similar size.

Hatchlings to 1 year: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value.

1-2 years: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once every 1-2 weeks.

2 years and up: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once every 2-3 weeks.

The correct body shape for a Timor python is round with visible muscle tone. They should not be kept as heavy as a blood python.

Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.

Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.