Boas & Pythons
Bismarck Ringed Python, Bothrochilus boa
AdvancedBismarck ringed pythons are unusual, semi-fossorial snakes from the Bismarck Archipelago off the northeast coast of Papua New Guinea. They hatch as vivid orange and black banded animals. Most mature into much darker animals, but some lineages hold color remarkably well. In all specimens their heavy iridescence is rarely paralleled outside of their closest living relatives: the white-lipped pythons. Some taxonomists place both in the same genus, and their care and keeping is effectively the same, scaled for size. In practice, well established animals are relatively hardy snakes with a strong immune system. We consider them an advanced species due to their strict humidity requirements, their intolerance to high heat, their high metabolism, and the notorious difficulty of getting hatchlings to start feeding.
At a glance
- Origin
- Bismarck Archipelago, Papua New Guinea
- Size
- Around 5 feet on average. The largest recorded was 8 feet 1 inch.
- Lifespan
- 20 years on average in collections. The record is 24 years.
- Basking Temperature
- None required. 80 degrees is the ceiling in a heated enclosure.
- Cool End Temperature
- Room ambient of 75 degrees is sufficient.
- Humidity
- 70-80%
- Substrate
- Coco coir or newspaper, with a separate moist hide. Do not use aspen.
- Habit
- Fundamentally a burrowing and secretive species. Will use a low branch.
- Water
- A bowl large enough to get into easily and comfortably at all times.
- Baby enclosure size
- 6 quart shoebox tub, moving up in size as they grow
- Adult enclosure size
- 3’ x 2’ floor area
This guide is a brief overview of basic care and minimum husbandry requirements and is not intended as a comprehensive guide to care. Our best advice:
Read, read, read! Studying about your new pet is the key to a long and happy life for them, and years of enjoyment for you.
Housing
Bismarck ringed pythons do not need a great deal of space. A floor area of around 3 feet by 2 feet suits an adult of up to 6 feet, and they are kept successfully in racks at that size. They require substrate deep enough to burrow in and places to hide. The enclosure can be short, though they will use a low branch if one is provided. Provide a hide, a water bowl, and a moist hide. Bismarck ringed pythons are persistent and will find any gap, so they should always be kept in a sturdy, escape-proof enclosure with an operable lock.
Substrate
Coco coir is an excellent substrate for these snakes, and plain unprinted newsprint works well. Aspen is not a good choice, as it will mold quickly at the humidity these snakes require. Keep the bedding itself dry and provide a separate moist hide box, as a snake sleeping on damp substrate is how you get belly rot.
Heating and Lighting
Lights are not necessary for these snakes as they are primarily fossorial and secretive, and bright light bothers them. 75 degrees is the ideal temperature, so heating is not needed provided that the ambient temperature of the room is in the mid 70s. THEIR TEMPERATURE SHOULD NEVER GO ABOVE 80 DEGREES. Snakes from this part of the world want it cooler than most keepers expect, and overheating is the most common way they are lost. Kept too warm, the snake will develop neurological signs, begin to roll onto its back and then onto its belly, and will die rapidly if it is not moved somewhere cooler immediately.
Humidity
High humidity is critical for these snakes. 70-80% is best. Their skin is thin for a python, and a dry enclosure shows up quickly as bad sheds. Do not be too precise about the figure, as it is not consistent between animals, and refine it based on how your snake behaves and sheds.
Water
Provide these snakes with a non-porous water bowl large enough to use, and change the water every two days rather than weekly. They live around running water such as small streams and are not adapted to standing water, which carries a heavier bacterial load. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.
Handling
Bismarck ringed pythons vary a great deal in temperament, and how yours turns out depends largely on the work you put in. Start with a hatchling and handle it regularly and it will generally tame down well. An animal that is not handled consistently will stay shy and defensive, and you will not get that time back later. Support your python’s body when handling. Young snakes that are being socialized may bite, and the best reaction is no reaction. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.
Feeding
Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail if possible, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding.
The metabolic rate of the Bismarck ringed python is similar to that of a Timor python. Adults require feeding every seven days, which is frequent for a python of this size. A woma or a Macklot’s python of the same length is fed roughly once every eighteen days.
Hatchlings are notoriously difficult to start feeding. The simplest way to get them feeding is to scent the pinkies with lancefish. This gets them eating readily after their first shed, and once they are feeding they do not stop.
Common Issues
Overheating
Overheating is the most common way these snakes are lost, and it happens quickly. A Bismarck that is out in the open, restless, or pressed against the coolest surface it can find is telling you that its enclosure is too warm. Above 80 degrees they develop neurological signs, roll onto their back and then onto their belly, and will die if they are not cooled immediately. Correct the temperature of the room rather than simply moving the snake, and confirm your readings with a thermostat rather than relying on a thermometer alone.
Escape
Bismarck ringed pythons are persistent and they will find any gap. Your enclosure must latch securely and lock. Check that it is properly closed every time you finish working in it. If your snake does get out, they are most often found in the same room, in the warmest and darkest place they can reach.
Hatchling Feeding Refusal
Hatchlings are notoriously difficult to start, and this is the single hardest part of keeping the species. Scent the pinkies with lancefish. They will generally begin feeding readily after their first shed, and once they are feeding they do not stop.
Defensiveness
A Bismarck that is not handled regularly is likely to stay shy and defensive, and the only reliable remedy is consistent handling from the time they are young. Young snakes that are being socialized may bite, and the best reaction is no reaction.
Quarantine
Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.
Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.