Boas & Pythons
Bredl's Python, Morelia bredli
IntermediateBredl’s pythons are large, semi-arboreal pythons from the arid interior of central Australia, and they are the one genuinely dry python we keep. They are red toned over a pale ground, and older animals often intensify in color rather than fading. They are docile animals with a famously explosive feeding response. Kept at the humidity that suits a blood python or a white-lipped python, a Bredl’s will develop problems, and their 30-50% requirement is the single thing most keepers get wrong with them. We consider them an intermediate species due to their adult size, their feeding response, and their unusual humidity requirements.
At a glance
- Origin
- Central Australia, arid interior
- Size
- 6.5-8 feet
- Lifespan
- 20-30 years
- Basking Temperature
- 86 degrees maximum
- Cool End Temperature
- 78-82 degrees. Not below 73 at night.
- Humidity
- 30-50%
- Substrate
- Aspen or cypress, kept dry.
- Baby enclosure size
- 20” x 10” x 12” – 30″ x 12″ x 12″
- Adult enclosure size
- 7’ x 3’ x 3’ minimum
This guide is a brief overview of basic care and minimum husbandry requirements and is not intended as a comprehensive guide to care. Our best advice:
Read, read, read! Studying about your new pet is the key to a long and happy life for them, and years of enjoyment for you.
Housing
Enclosures must be long enough for the snake to stretch out fully and exercise, and tall enough for the snake to climb. Bredl’s pythons are semi-arboreal and will use height readily, so an adult needs a minimum of 7 feet by 3 feet by 3 feet and taller is better. Provide sturdy branches and shelves. Give them generous hides and cover at every size, as a Bredl’s kept too exposed becomes defensive and goes off food, and this is documented particularly in hatchlings. Bredl’s pythons should always be kept in a sturdy, escape-proof enclosure with an operable lock.
Substrate
We recommend aspen or cypress for Bredl’s pythons, kept dry. This is an arid species and the substrate should never be damp. Remove any wet or mildewed substrate regularly.
Heating and Lighting
Provide a basking spot at one end regulated to no more than 86 degrees, with a cool end of 78-82. Do not let the enclosure fall below 73 degrees at night. Belly heat is preferable to overhead heat for hatchlings, and a hot spot should be available around the clock until they are about eighteen months old. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Bredl’s pythons do not generally require a UV light, but may benefit from one.
Humidity
Humidity should be maintained at 30-50%. This is the one genuinely dry python we keep, and it is considerably lower than every other python on this site. Place a good quality hygrostat in your python’s enclosure to monitor humidity. Kept at the humidity that suits a blood python or a white-lipped python, a Bredl’s will develop problems.
Water
Provide your python with a non-porous, tip-resistant water bowl and change it frequently. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.
Handling
Bredl’s pythons typically tame well, but they have strong feeding responses. You should study and practice tap training with your python. There are numerous resources available online to show you how to do this, and you should be consistent in practice. Support your python’s body when handling and expect them to reach for anything they can grip, as these are climbing animals. Pythons should not be allowed to wrap around a handler’s neck as they can restrict airways in the process of supporting themselves. Instead, support the animal over one shoulder and under the other arm.
Feeding
Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail if possible, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding. Bredl’s pythons enjoy poultry in addition to rodents, and a large adult female will take a rabbit. Feed appropriately sized prey at appropriate intervals, but never deprive them of food. Obesity is common in Bredl’s pythons, and leads to serious health concerns which may drastically shorten the life expectancy of the animal.
Hatchlings to 1 year: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value.
1-2 years: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once every 2 weeks.
2 years and up: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once every 2-3 weeks.
The correct body shape for a Bredl’s python is round with visible muscle tone. They are not a heavy-bodied python and should not be kept like one.
Common Issues
Feeding Response
These snakes have a powerful feeding response, and most bites from a well socialized animal are feeding accidents rather than defensive strikes. You should study and practice tap training, and there are numerous resources available online to show you how to do this. Never open the enclosure with the smell of prey on your hands, and wash them thoroughly after handling frozen thawed food.
Obesity
Obesity is common in captive pythons and it is caused by overfeeding. It leads to fatty liver disease and other serious health concerns, and it will considerably shorten the life of your snake. Feed appropriately sized prey at appropriate intervals, and do not use food as a solution to a behavioral problem.
Respiratory infection
Wheezing, open-mouth breathing, bubbling at the nostrils, or a snake holding its head raised for long periods. Almost always secondary to a husbandry problem: too cold, too wet, or both. For an arid species like this one, an enclosure kept too damp is the usual cause. Correct the cause and see your veterinarian. These need antibiotics, not a temperature bump.
Quarantine
Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.
Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.