Chinese King Ratsnake, Elaphe carinata

Enclosures must be long enough for the snake to stretch out fully and exercise. Chinese king ratsnakes will use vines and low branches, though they are more terrestrial than the beauty snakes. Upgrade your snake’s enclosure any time they are no longer able to stretch out. Avoid glass aquariums with screen lids as they do not hold sufficient humidity. Provide multiple hiding places. NEVER HOUSE A CHINESE KING RATSNAKE WITH ANOTHER SNAKE OF ANY SPECIES. They actively hunt and eat other snakes, including venomous species, and juveniles must be housed strictly separately.

Cypress mulch and coco coir both make excellent substrates for Chinese king ratsnakes and help retain the humidity they need.

A basking spot can be provided at one end of the enclosure regulated to 82-84 degrees, with a cool end of 75-78. Ceramic heat emitters or panels are preferable. When using heat emitters, a guard must be present and secure to avoid burns. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Basking spot may be cycled for day-night.

Humidity should be maintained at 60-80%. Place a good quality hygrostat in your snake’s enclosure to monitor humidity. Using the correct substrate and misting occasionally is usually sufficient to maintain appropriate levels, but a fogger may be used if you wish.

Provide your snake with a non-porous water bowl and change it frequently. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.

Chinese king ratsnakes require regular handling from the time they are young to develop into well-socialized adults, and some individuals remain defensive no matter how much work you put into them. Expect to be bitten and expect to be musked, as their musk is the worst of anything we keep. Keep two hands on the snake at all times as they are extremely agile and can get away quickly. Use a firm but comfortable grip. The best reaction is no reaction, and with time and gentle handling defensive strikes will become less frequent. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.

Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Do not feed your snake from your fingers. Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding.

Hatchlings are large at 14-18 inches and start on fuzzy mice. Chinese king ratsnakes will take chicks, quail chicks, and eggs as readily as they take rodents.

Hatchlings to 2 years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value.

2+ years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once every 1-2 weeks. If the snake is refusing meals ~50% of the time, adjust the feeding schedule accordingly.

The correct body shape for a Chinese king ratsnake is essentially round, but not so thick as to make the tail overly distinguishable from the body.

Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.

Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.