North American Rat Snakes
Corn Snake, Pantherophis guttatus
BeginnerCorn snakes are common, smaller colubrids in the rat snake family, found across much of the United States. Typically docile with even minimal handling, they are an excellent first snake.
At a glance
- Origin
- Southeastern United States
- Size
- 3-5 feet is typical, 2-6 the full range
- Lifespan
- 15-20 years is typical, some past 23
- Basking Temperature
- 85 degrees
- Cool End Temperature
- 75-79 degrees
- Humidity
- 40-60%
- Substrate
- Aspen, cypress
- Baby enclosure size
- 20″ x 10″ x 10″
- Adult enclosure size
- 4’ x 2’ x 2’
This guide is a brief overview of basic care and minimum husbandry requirements and is not intended as a comprehensive guide to care. Our best advice:
Read, read, read! Studying about your new pet is the key to a long and happy life for them, and years of enjoyment for you.
Housing
Enclosures must be long enough for the snake to stretch out fully and exercise. Corn snakes do not require vines and foliage, but will climb eagerly if they are provided. Upgrade your snake’s enclosure any time they are no longer able to stretch out. As humidity is not a substantial requirement for these animals, glass aquariums with screen tops are acceptable, though they are not our recommendation.
Substrate
Aspen is ideal for corn snakes. Cypress is acceptable, though it may retain more humidity than needed. Corn snakes are generally tolerant of changes in humidity, but must not be kept wet. When using aspen, remove any wet or mildewed substrate regularly.
Heating and Lighting
A basking spot can be provided at one end of the enclosure regulated to 85 degrees, with a cool end of 75-79. Ceramic heat emitters are preferable. When using heat emitters, a guard must be present and secure to avoid burns. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Day-night cycling of basking temperature is not generally recommended. Corn snakes do not require UV lights though they are beneficial in maintaining circadian rhythm.
Humidity
Humidity should be maintained at 40-60%. Place a good quality hygrostat in your snake’s enclosure to monitor humidity. If your snake has issues shedding, consider using cypress bedding and misting occasionally. Corn snakes should not be kept wet.
Water
Provide your snake with a non-porous water bowl and change it frequently. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.
Handling
Corn snakes should be handled regularly from the time they are young to help develop into docile, well-socialized adults. This takes minimal effort for most corn snakes. Keep two hands on the snake at all times as they are extremely agile and can get away quickly. Use a firm but comfortable grip. Young snakes that are being socialized may bite. The best reaction is no reaction. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.
Feeding
Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Do not feed your snake from your fingers. Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding.
Hatchlings to 2 years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value.
2+ years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once every 1-2 weeks. If the snake is refusing meals ~50% of the time, adjust the feeding schedule accordingly.
The correct body shape for a corn snake is slender, with muscle tone visible.
Common Issues
Escape
Snakes are considerably stronger and more persistent than most new keepers expect, and an escaped snake is frequently a dead snake. Your enclosure must latch securely, and any screen top must be clipped down on all sides. Check that the enclosure is properly closed every time you finish working in it. If your snake does get out, they are most often found in the same room, in the warmest and darkest place they can reach.
Stuck Shed
A shed that comes off in pieces, or a retained eye cap, generally means that humidity was too low while your snake was in shed, or that your snake is dehydrated. Provide a humid hide with damp sphagnum moss and confirm that the water bowl is full. Never pull a retained eye cap off dry. A piece of retained shed left on the tail tip will constrict and cost your snake the end of its tail.
Quarantine
Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.
Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.