Dumeril’s Boa, Acrantophis dumerili

Enclosures for Dumeril’s boas must be long enough for the boa to stretch out fully and exercise. Upgrade your boa’s enclosure any time they are no longer able to stretch out. Six feet by two feet by two feet is the minimum for an adult, and six by three by three is better. Floor space is more important than height for this species, but keep at least 24 inches regardless, for substrate depth and for distance between the animal and the lamps. Dumeril’s boas will use a low, sturdy branch or a cork log, but they do not climb. Provide a hide at both hot and cool ends. Avoid glass aquariums with screen lids as they do not hold sufficient humidity.

NEVER HOUSE TWO DUMERIL’S BOAS TOGETHER. They are solitary animals, and this species will eat another snake.

Aspen makes an excellent substrate for Dumeril’s boa enclosures. Give it enough depth to burrow into, three to four inches at a minimum, as this is a snake that shelters underground. Coconut husk chip also works and holds humidity better. Never use cedar or pine. Aspen must not be misted directly as it will mold quickly, so raise humidity with a damp hide rather than by wetting the bedding.

Remove feces and urates daily along with the substrate around them, and replace the substrate completely every three to four months.

Provide a basking spot at one end regulated to 86-88 degrees at the surface, with a cool end of 75-80. We prefer heat panels as a heat source for plastic and PVC enclosures. A dome light with a ceramic heat emitter is preferable for front opening glass enclosures. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot, and confirm the basking surface with a separate infrared reading. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Nights may fall to 68-75, and the heat can be turned off overnight unless the room goes below 68.

Give eleven hours of light in winter, twelve in spring and autumn, and thirteen in summer. Dumeril’s boas do not require a UV light, but they may benefit from one. If you choose to provide it, use a T5 HO forest-strength bulb over the warm side, positioned for a UV index of 2.0-3.0 at the basking spot, and replace the bulb every 12 months whether or not it still emits visible light.

Dumeril’s boas are most active at dusk and after dark, but they are not strictly nocturnal and will move during the day.

Humidity should be maintained at 40-60%. Place a good quality hygrometer in your boas enclosure to monitor humidity, with the probe in the middle of the enclosure rather than against a wall. Raise it for shedding, and keep damp sphagnum moss in the cool hide if you need more. Change that moss regularly so it does not mold. Do not mist aspen directly.

Provide your boa with a non-porous water bowl large enough for them to coil up in, and change it frequently. Dumeril’s boas drink heavily and will soak. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.

Dumeril’s boas are generally among the most docile boas kept, but they have strong feeding responses. You should study and practice tap training with your boa. There are numerous resources available online to show you how to do this, and you should be consistent in practice. Support your boa’s body when handling. Do not let them dangle loosely. Boas use their tails to support themselves, so expect that they will grab ahold of your hand, arm, or clothing when being handled. Boas should not be allowed to wrap around a handler’s neck as they can restrict airways in the process of supporting themselves. Instead, support larger animals over one shoulder and under the other arm. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.

Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders, and every animal we produce is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Do not feed your snake from your fingers. Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding. Feed this species by weight rather than on a fixed schedule. A meal should come to roughly 10% of the snake’s body weight, and no single prey item should be more than about one and a half times the snake’s width at its widest point.

Under 3 feet: 20-40 g every 7-10 days. Young boas do best on mice, which along with African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value.

3-4 feet: 40-70 g every 14-21 days.

4-6 feet: 70-130 g every 14-21 days. Quail and chicks may be used to add diversity to their diet.

7 feet and up: 130-250 g every 21-28 days. Large adults may take small rabbits.

The correct body shape for a boa is that of a bread loaf: square on the sides and round on top. A round boa is obese.

Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.

Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal sheds during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.