Kingsnakes & Milk Snakes
Eastern Kingsnake, Lampropeltis getula getula
BeginnerEastern kingsnakes are medium-sized, terrestrial, burrowing colubrids from the eastern and central United States, and they are the nominate form of the common kingsnake. Their size is relatively typical of true kingsnakes. They are diurnal, active, and curious animals that tame readily with regular handling, although hatchlings can be quite skittish. Of the kingsnakes we keep, this is the one with the strongest reputation for eating other snakes in the wild.
At a glance
- Origin
- Eastern and Central United States
- Size
- 3-5 feet
- Lifespan
- 15-20 years
- Basking Temperature
- 85 degrees. Never above 90.
- Cool End Temperature
- 75-80 degrees
- Humidity
- 40-60%
- Substrate
- Aspen
- Baby enclosure size
- 20″ x 10″ x 10″
- Adult enclosure size
- 5’ x 2’ x 2’
This guide is a brief overview of basic care and minimum husbandry requirements and is not intended as a comprehensive guide to care. Our best advice:
Read, read, read! Studying about your new pet is the key to a long and happy life for them, and years of enjoyment for you.
Housing
Enclosures must be long enough for the snake to stretch out fully and exercise. Eastern kingsnakes prefer to burrow rather than climb. Provide multiple hiding places. Upgrade your snake’s enclosure any time they are no longer able to stretch out. Eastern kingsnakes are excellent escape artists, so a screen top must be clipped down on all sides, and a front-opening enclosure is our recommendation.
Substrate
Aspen is ideal for eastern kingsnakes, and should be provided thick enough to allow burrowing. When using aspen, remove any wet or mildewed substrate regularly.
Heating and Lighting
A basking spot can be provided at one end of the enclosure regulated to 85 degrees, and never above 90. Kingsnakes stop using a hot spot around 90 degrees and cannot get themselves out of trouble past it. Ceramic heat emitters are preferable. When using heat emitters, a guard must be present and secure to avoid burns. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Basking spot may be cycled for day-night, with a constant ambient temp in the mid-70’s. Eastern kingsnakes do not require UV lights.
Humidity
Humidity should be maintained at 40-60%. Eastern kingsnakes do not need supplemental humidity or a misting regime. A humid hide with damp sphagnum moss should be provided to assist with shedding.
Water
Provide your snake with a non-porous water bowl and change it frequently. For eastern kingsnakes, we find that because they move their bedding around frequently, a bowl with higher sides is preferable. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.
Handling
Eastern kingsnakes should be handled regularly from the time they are young to develop into docile, well-socialized adults. Because young eastern kingsnakes have little natural defenses, they frequently thrash and musk when picked up. When handling hatchling kingsnakes, we find it best to gently scoop them up with two hands, keeping them in the enclosure rather than removing them. This helps avoid falls, which can injure a young kingsnake. With regular handling, your young kingsnake will become more comfortable with being picked up. Young snakes that are being socialized may bite, but this is uncommon. The best reaction is no reaction. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.
Feeding
Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Do not feed your snake from your fingers. Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding. Eastern kingsnakes will not typically eat when in shed.
Hatchlings to 2 years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value.
2+ years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once every 1-2 weeks. If the snake is refusing meals ~50% of the time, adjust the feeding schedule accordingly.
The correct body shape for a eastern kingsnake is essentially round, but not so thick as to make the tail overly distinguishable from the body.
Common Issues
Escape
Snakes are considerably stronger and more persistent than most new keepers expect, and an escaped snake is frequently a dead snake. Your enclosure must latch securely, and any screen top must be clipped down on all sides. Check that the enclosure is properly closed every time you finish working in it. If your snake does get out, they are most often found in the same room, in the warmest and darkest place they can reach.
Stuck Shed
A shed that comes off in pieces, or a retained eye cap, generally means that humidity was too low while your snake was in shed, or that your snake is dehydrated. Provide a humid hide with damp sphagnum moss and confirm that the water bowl is full. Never pull a retained eye cap off dry. A piece of retained shed left on the tail tip will constrict and cost your snake the end of its tail.
Cohousing
Kingsnakes and milk snakes eat other snakes, and that includes their own species. Never house two together, at any age, for any length of time. There is no warning display before it happens, and it does not improve with familiarity or with matching them for size.
Quarantine
Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.
Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.