Honduran Milk Snake, Lampropeltis hondurensis

Enclosures must be long enough for the snake to stretch out fully and exercise. They require substrate deep enough to burrow in and multiple places to hide. Honduran milk snakes prefer to burrow rather than climb, though they will use a low log or outcrop. Provide a humid hide with damp sphagnum moss to assist with shedding. Upgrade your snake’s enclosure any time they are no longer able to stretch out.

Aspen or cypress are both excellent substrates for Honduran milk snakes, and either should be provided thick enough to allow burrowing. Cork bark and foliage for extra hiding are beneficial, as these snakes do not like to be exposed. When using aspen, remove any wet or mildewed substrate regularly.

A basking spot can be provided at one end of the enclosure regulated to 85 degrees, with a cool end of 75-78 degrees and a night temperature of 72-78. Ceramic heat emitters are preferable. When using heat emitters, a guard must be present and secure to avoid burns. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Honduran milk snakes do not require UV lights.

Humidity should be maintained at 50-70%. Place a good quality hygrostat in your snake’s enclosure to monitor humidity. Using the correct substrate and misting is usually sufficient to maintain appropriate levels. A humid hide with damp sphagnum moss should be available at all times to assist with shedding.

Provide these snakes with a non-porous water bowl and change it frequently. Never let them run out of water.

Honduran milk snakes should be handled regularly from the time they are young to develop into docile, well-socialized adults. Because they have few natural defenses, they frequently thrash and musk when picked up. When handling hatchling milk snakes, we find it best to gently scoop them up with two hands, keeping them in the enclosure rather than removing them. This helps avoid falls, which can injure a young milk snake. With regular handling, your young milk snake will become more comfortable with being picked up. Young snakes that are being socialized may bite, but this is uncommon. The best reaction is no reaction. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.

Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Do not feed your snake from your fingers. Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding. Honduran milk snakes will not typically eat when in shed.

Hatchlings to 2 years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value.

2+ years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once every 1-2 weeks. If the snake is refusing meals ~50% of the time, adjust the feeding schedule accordingly.

The correct body shape for a Honduran milk snake is essentially round, but not so thick as to make the tail overly distinguishable from the body.

Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.

Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.