Japanese Rat Snake, Elaphe climacophora

Enclosures must be long enough for the snake to stretch out fully and exercise. Japanese rat snakes should be given vines and foliage to climb. Upgrade your snake’s enclosure any time they are no longer able to stretch out. Avoid glass aquariums with screen lids as they do not hold sufficient humidity. Provide multiple hiding places. Japanese rat snakes can be kept in bioactive enclosures.

Aspen, cypress, and forest bark all make excellent substrates for Japanese rat snakes. Cypress and bark hold humidity better than aspen. When using aspen, remove any wet or mildewed substrate regularly.

Japanese rat snakes do not want a hard hot spot. Hold 77-82 degrees across the enclosure. Ceramic heat emitters or panels are preferable. When using heat emitters, a guard must be present and secure to avoid burns. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly against the heat source. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Japanese rat snakes do not require UV lights.

Humidity should be maintained at 40-60%, with a humid hide available on demand. Place a good quality hygrostat in your snake’s enclosure to monitor humidity. Using the correct substrate and misting occasionally is usually sufficient to maintain appropriate levels.

Provide your snake with a non-porous water bowl and change it frequently. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.

Japanese rat snakes require regular handling from the time they are young to develop into docile, well-socialized adults, and one that is left alone will stay nervous and defensive. Keep two hands on the snake at all times as they are extremely agile and can get away quickly. Use a firm but comfortable grip. Young snakes that are being socialized may bite, and the best reaction is no reaction. With time and gentle handling, defensive strikes will become less and less frequent. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.

Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Do not feed your snake from your fingers. Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding. Japanese rat snakes will not typically eat when in shed.

Hatchlings to 2 years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value.

2+ years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once every 1-2 weeks. If the snake is refusing meals ~50% of the time, adjust the feeding schedule accordingly.

The correct body shape for a Japanese rat snake is a little taller than wide.

Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.

Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.