Boas & Pythons
Jungle Carpet Python, Morelia spilota cheynei
IntermediateJungle carpet pythons are medium-sized, genuinely arboreal pythons from the rainforests of north Queensland, Australia. They are black and gold, and the amount of gold varies considerably between lines and increases in many animals as they mature. They do not merely tolerate branches, they climb, and hatchlings climb more than adults do. Juveniles are commonly nippy, and most grow out of it with regular handling. We consider them an intermediate species due to their real arboreal requirements and the work involved in socializing a juvenile.
At a glance
- Origin
- North Queensland rainforest, Australia
- Size
- 5-7 feet
- Lifespan
- 15-20 years
- Basking Temperature
- 86 degrees maximum
- Cool End Temperature
- 78-80 degrees
- Humidity
- 50-70% for adults. Juveniles sit at or below that, 40-60%.
- Substrate
- Cypress or coco chip
- Baby enclosure size
- 20” x 10” x 12” – 30″ x 12″ x 12″
- Adult enclosure size
- 6’ x 2’ x 3’
This guide is a brief overview of basic care and minimum husbandry requirements and is not intended as a comprehensive guide to care. Our best advice:
Read, read, read! Studying about your new pet is the key to a long and happy life for them, and years of enjoyment for you.
Housing
Enclosures must be long enough for the snake to stretch out fully and exercise, and tall enough for the snake to climb. Jungle carpet pythons are genuinely arboreal rather than merely tolerant of branches, so height is not optional. An adult needs 6 feet by 2 feet by 3 feet. Provide sturdy horizontal branches and perches at several levels. Hatchlings are more arboreal than adults and should be given branches even in a small tub, and small opaque enclosures reduce stress in young animals. Jungle carpet pythons should always be kept in a sturdy, escape-proof enclosure with an operable lock.
Substrate
We recommend cypress or coco chip for jungle carpet pythons. Both hold humidity well and look good in a planted or naturalistic enclosure.
Heating and Lighting
Provide a basking spot at one end regulated to no more than 86 degrees, with a cool end of 78-80. We prefer heat panels as a heat source. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Jungle carpet pythons do not generally require a UV light, but may benefit from one.
Humidity
Humidity should be maintained at 50-70% for adults. Juveniles sit at or below that, between 40-60%, raised during shed, which is the reverse of the usual pattern. Place a good quality hygrostat in your python’s enclosure to monitor humidity.
Water
Provide your python with a non-porous, tip-resistant water bowl and change it frequently. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.
Handling
Jungle carpet pythons typically tame well, but they have strong feeding responses. You should study and practice tap training with your python. There are numerous resources available online to show you how to do this, and you should be consistent in practice. Support your python’s body when handling and expect them to reach for branches, your arm, or anything else within reach, as these are climbing animals. Pythons should not be allowed to wrap around a handler’s neck as they can restrict airways in the process of supporting themselves. Instead, support the animal over one shoulder and under the other arm.
Feeding
Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail if possible, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding. Jungle carpet pythons enjoy poultry in addition to rodents. Feed appropriately sized prey at appropriate intervals, but never deprive them of food. Obesity is common in jungle carpet pythons, and leads to serious health concerns which may drastically shorten the life expectancy of the animal.
Hatchlings to 1 year: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are superior to rats of equivalent size for nutritional value.
1-2 years: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once every 2 weeks.
2 years and up: 1 prey item the approximate girth of the snake once every 2-3 weeks.
The correct body shape for a jungle carpet python is round with visible muscle tone. They are not a heavy-bodied python and should not be kept like one.
Common Issues
Defensiveness
A snake that is not handled regularly is likely to become defensive and to stay that way, and the only reliable remedy is consistent handling from the time they are young. Some individuals will remain defensive no matter how much work you put into them. Young snakes that are being socialized may bite, and the best reaction is no reaction. With time and gentle handling, defensive strikes will become less and less frequent.
Scale rot
The first sign of scale rot is white areas where the scales seem to be receding. Scale rot is commonly caused by the enclosure being too wet. It is also frequently caused by stress as a result of improper sanitation, improper enclosure size, lack of hiding area for security, or heat being too high or low. You should confirm that all aspects of your enclosure are optimal first and foremost if you notice the beginning of scale rot, and consult your veterinarian for treatment. We also recommend that you change any snake experiencing scale rot to unprinted newsprint or paper towels. Sterilize their environment thoroughly. Clean affected area on snake with 2% chlorhexidine. If an open wound is observed, consult your veterinarian immediately.
Stuck Shed
A shed that comes off in pieces, or a retained eye cap, generally means that humidity was too low while your snake was in shed, or that your snake is dehydrated. Provide a humid hide with damp sphagnum moss and confirm that the water bowl is full. Never pull a retained eye cap off dry. A piece of retained shed left on the tail tip will constrict and cost your snake the end of its tail.
Quarantine
Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.
Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.