Boas & Pythons
Kenyan Sand Boa, Eryx colubrinus
BeginnerThe Kenyan sand boa is a small, stocky snake from Eastern Africa. Its unusual shovel-shaped head and bold pattern are unmistakable. Kenyan sand boas make an excellent choice of pet snake even for novice keepers.
At a glance
- Origin
- East Africa
- Size
- 1.5-3 feet. Females are larger than males.
- Lifespan
- 20-30+ years
- Basking Temperature
- 90 degrees at the surface
- Cool End Temperature
- 72-80 degrees
- Humidity
- 30-50%
- Substrate
- Aspen. NEVER USE REAL SAND, CALCIUM SAND, OR CRUSHED WALNUT SHELL.
- Baby enclosure size
- 10” x 8” x 6” – 12″ x 10″ x 8″
- Adult enclosure size
- 36” x 18” x 12”
This guide is a brief overview of basic care and minimum husbandry requirements and is not intended as a comprehensive guide to sand boa care. Our best advice:
Read, read, read! Studying about your new pet is the key to a long and happy life for them, and years of enjoyment for you.
Housing
Enclosures for sand boas must be long enough for the boa to stretch out fully and exercise. Upgrade your sand boa’s enclosure any time they are no longer able to stretch out. A hide is not required as they will spend most of their time burrowing.
Substrate
Aspen makes an excellent substrate for sand boas, as it allows them to burrow readily. Never use real sand, calcium sand, or crushed walnut shell.
Heating and Lighting
Provide a basking spot at one end regulated to 90 degrees at the surface, with a cool end of 72-80. Sand boas thermoregulate by burrowing, so the surface figure is what you set. A dome light with a ceramic heat emitter is preferable. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Night drops in temperature are not required. Sand boas do not generally require a UV light, but may benefit from one.
Humidity
Humidity should be maintained at 30-50%. Place a good quality hygrostat in your sand boas enclosure to monitor humidity. Mold on bedding is a strong sign that the humidity is too high.
Water
Provide your boa with a non-porous water bowl and change it frequently. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.
Handling
Sand boas are generally docile snakes and will often simply lie limp in their handlers hands. Support your boa’s body when handling. Your sand boa may dangle some, which is fine, provided they are not shaken or moved quickly. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.
Feeding
Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Do not feed your snake from your fingers. Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding. Young boas do best on mice, but should be transitioned to rats by the time they are big enough to eat large mice.
Hatchlings to 1 year: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once per week. Mice and African Soft Furs are ideal for sand boas.
1-2 years: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once every 2 weeks.
2 years and up: 1 rodent the approximate girth of the snake once every 3-4 weeks.
The correct body shape for a sand boa is round, but care should be taken to avoid obesity.
Common Issues
Obesity
Obesity is the most common health problem in captive sand boas, and it is generally caused by overfeeding. These are sedentary animals that spend most of their lives burrowing, and they will eat nearly every time food is offered. An overfed sand boa becomes visibly round and loses definition along the spine. If you are unsure, feed less often rather than feeding smaller meals, as reducing frequency is more effective than reducing prey size.
Impaction
Sand boas take a mouthful of substrate with nearly every feeding strike. This is why your choice of substrate matters so much, and why walnut shell is not acceptable. A lethargic sand boa that has not passed anything in several weeks needs frequent lukewarm soaks and a veterinarian. Feeding on a tile or in a separate container prevents the problem entirely.
Quarantine
Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.
Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.