Mandarin Rat Snake, Euprepiophis mandarinus

Mandarins do not need a tremendous amount of space, and they do better in an enclosure smaller than their length would suggest. They are fossorial and spend most of the day buried, and too much open space makes them feel exposed. They need substrate for burrowing and plenty of places to hide. Their enclosure should always have a closed top, never screen. Provide foliage and cork bark, as well as a humid hide with damp sphagnum moss. This species is ideal for bioactive enclosures. Do not house two mandarins together, as they will fight.

Cypress is an excellent substrate for these snakes and should be provided at least four inches deep so they can burrow through it. Cypress is preferable to aspen here, as it is less dusty and far less likely to mold at the humidity mandarins are kept at. Never use cedar or pine. Do not use a paper liner, as it defeats the point of a burrowing species. Cork bark and foliage for extra hiding are beneficial, as these snakes do not like to be exposed.

Lights are not necessary for these snakes as they are primarily fossorial and nocturnal. The mid 70s is the ideal temperature, and a 60 to 80 degree gradient is acceptable, so heating is not needed provided that the ambient temperature of the room is in the mid 70s. THEIR TEMPERATURE SHOULD NEVER GO ABOVE 80 DEGREES. Mandarins want it colder than almost anything else in the hobby, and keeping them at ordinary colubrid temperatures is what kills them.

Humidity should be maintained at 62-82%. A humid hide packed with moist sphagnum moss and available at all times does nearly all of the work for this species, and no misting regime is required. Place a good quality hygrostat in your snake’s enclosure to monitor humidity.

Provide these snakes with a non-porous water bowl and change it frequently. Never let them run out of water. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.

These snakes can be skittish. Handling should be done slowly and gently. Gentle and regular interaction with them from a young age will lead to less elusive and easier to handle adults. Always handle young snakes over their enclosure as they are prone to darting away, and should not be held too tightly as they can be easy to injure.

Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Do not feed your snake from your fingers. Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding.

Hatchlings take their first shed at 7-10 days and are fed after that. They are generally easy feeders once started. Newly hatched animals eat every 5-7 days and juveniles every 4-6 days, which means juveniles are fed more often than neonates. Adults eat roughly weekly on an appropriately sized rodent.

Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.

Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.