Other Colubrids
Western Hognose, Heterodon nasicus
BeginnerWestern hognose are small, stout, fossorial colubrids from the Great Plains of central North America, with the upturned rostral scale that gives them their name and their digging ability. They are patterned in tan and brown over a paler ground, and they are available in a very large number of morphs. Females are considerably larger than males, and you should size an adult enclosure for a female. Their bluffing display, in which they hood, hiss, strike with a closed mouth and then roll over and play dead, is a bluff. They do not follow it with a real strike, and a hognose that has rolled over will right itself as soon as you leave it alone. They are rear-fanged and mildly venomous. This is not medically significant to a healthy adult, but you should know it before you buy one, as a chewing bite can cause local swelling and discomfort for a day or two and individual sensitivity varies.
At a glance
- Origin
- Central North America, the Great Plains
- Size
- 1.5-2.5 feet. Females are much larger than males.
- Lifespan
- 10-18 years
- Basking Temperature
- 90 degrees at the surface
- Cool End Temperature
- 72-77 degrees
- Humidity
- 30-50%
- Substrate
- Aspen
- Baby enclosure size
- 10 gallon or rack tub
- Adult enclosure size
- 3’ x 1.5’ x 1’
This guide is a brief overview of basic care and minimum husbandry requirements and is not intended as a comprehensive guide to care. Our best advice:
Read, read, read! Studying about your new pet is the key to a long and happy life for them, and years of enjoyment for you.
Housing
Enclosures for western hognose must be long enough for the snake to stretch out fully and exercise. Upgrade your hognose’s enclosure any time they are no longer able to stretch out. Depth of substrate matters more to them than floor area, as they will spend most of their time burrowing. Ventilation matters more for this species than for almost anything else we keep, as a stuffy or damp enclosure will give them respiratory infections.
Substrate
Aspen makes an excellent substrate for western hognose, as it allows them to burrow readily. Provide it deep enough to burrow in. A dry, loose topsoil and play sand mix also works well and will hold a tunnel. Never use calcium sand or crushed walnut shell.
Heating and Lighting
Provide a basking spot at one end regulated to 90 degrees at the surface, with a cool end of 72-77 degrees. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature with the probe secured directly in the basking spot. Do not guess! Do not use only a thermometer. Overheating can be quickly fatal for your new pet. Western hognose do not generally require a UV light, but may benefit from one.
Humidity
Humidity should be maintained at 30-50%. Place a good quality hygrostat in your hognose’s enclosure to monitor humidity. Mold on bedding is a strong sign that the humidity is too high. A humid hide with damp sphagnum moss should be provided during shed, particularly for hatchlings.
Water
Provide your snake with a non-porous water bowl and change it frequently. For western hognose, we find that because they move their bedding around frequently, a bowl with higher sides is preferable. Snakes frequently defecate in their water bowl, so frequent disinfection is essential. We recommend F10 Veterinary Disinfectant, diluted according to the directions on the bottle.
Handling
Western hognose are generally docile snakes. Support your snake’s body when handling. They are small and light, and a fall from handling height can injure one, so keep them low and over a surface. Children should always be supervised when handling snakes. Do not handle them while they are in shed or right after meals.
Feeding
Allow your new snake at least a week to adjust to its new habitat before feeding. Mortal Coil Serpentry supports feeding frozen feeders. Your new pet is already feeding on frozen thawed. Live feeding is not recommended. Warm frozen prey to a natural body temperature (~90 degrees). Do not feed your snake from your fingers. Present prey with tongs, holding it by the base of the tail, and wiggle gently in front of the snake. Do not handle for at least 24 hours after feeding.
Western hognose are fed small frozen thawed pinky mice weekly to every ten days, and adults seldom need anything larger than an adult mouse.
The correct body shape for a western hognose is stout but not round.
Common Issues
Respiratory infection
Wheezing, open-mouth breathing, bubbling at the nostrils, or a snake holding its head raised for long periods. Western hognose are more prone to this than most snakes we keep, and the usual cause is poor ventilation or an enclosure kept damp. Correct the cause and see your veterinarian. These need antibiotics, not a temperature bump.
Obesity
Western hognose are small and they are very easy to overfeed. An overweight hognose loses definition and becomes visibly round. Feed small prey on schedule and resist feeding more often simply because they are enthusiastic about it.
Hatchling Feeding Refusal
Feeding refusal is a real and documented issue in hatchlings of this species, though it is not universal. The standard remedy is scenting the pinky with tuna or salmon juice. Every baby we sell is established and feeding on frozen thawed pinkies before it goes anywhere.
Quarantine
Any new animal should be kept separate from the snakes you already own. A different room is best, but the opposite end of the house will do. Feed and clean your quarantined animal last, and wash your hands thoroughly before you handle anything else.
Ninety days is a reasonable minimum, and your new snake should be feeding consistently before you consider it out of quarantine. Watch for mites, wheezing, regurgitation, and abnormal stool during this period, and consult your veterinarian if you see any of them.